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 NEW  Matt presents bias and operation data for the 6V6 tube in SE operation - 6V6 Single-Ended (SE) Ultra Linear (UL) Bias Optimization.

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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2009, 09:40 
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Joined: 04 May 2009, 14:25
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Thanks for doing that. Settles my mind.


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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2009, 12:08 
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Joined: 28 May 2008, 21:53
Posts: 4580
Location: Winnipeg, CANADA
The PSU D II software is great. I've used it several times and if you take the time to measure the transformer it gets you very close to the actual voltage.
Cheers

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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2009, 15:06 
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Joined: 04 Oct 2008, 11:29
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Location: Chillicothe, Ohio
The 6L6GC is a great choice considering the plate voltages we'll be seeing. Everyone will have to be careful with which tube they choose, making sure it will match well with their choice of power transformer. Some of the 6L6 family can't withstand the same voltages as the GC version. Below are some helpful write-ups.

http://www.audiotubes.com/6l6.htm

http://www.audiotubes.com/el34.htm


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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2009, 15:24 
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193JP is $183.28 from PartSexPress. That's more than 3 times as expensive. :censored:


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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2009, 17:22 
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On the bright side, they did just offer me a 10% discount for 5 or more, but I'm probably going with the James unless it comes back significantly more expensive. If anyone wants the info, PM me your email, and I'll forward you the emails.

If I do get the Hammond, I'll probably just go undercarriage.


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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2009, 19:56 
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Location: Chillicothe, Ohio
The 193J is only $58+ at PE. The 193JP is potted. They are nice, but it's still a $50 transformer in a different enclosure. I bought a 193J for my KT88 SET, and after painting the crummy looking end bells, it looked great. Can't imagine that potting a tranny in a can could possibly add $130 to the cost.

Having said that, the James are nice.


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PostPosted: 18 Jul 2009, 18:09 
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Location: Chillicothe, Ohio
Just a heads up here for those following this thread and a few observations that may be helpful when choosing or building a chassis.

The size of the pcb for this build makes chassis dimensions critical. I should have paid better attention to what Mr. Millett used for dimensions. I was ordering chokes from Angela Instruments and decided spur-of-the-moment to buy a pair of 16" x 8" x 3" Hammond aluminum chassis. While the total area is adequate, it really isn't in the best of proportions for fitting in this pcb. Without mods, it's 1/4" short of being wide enough to place the board across the width, and when turning the pcb along the length of the enclosure the width is such that there's not a lot of room alongside. Chassis mounting the sockets for the 6SN7s and the rectifier may be the answer. That will allow me to mount all the tubes to get the symmetry and balanced placement I want, whereas that's not going to be possible if I mount those sockets to the pcb. It just won't work with the tubes being where they are on the pcb. The best I can do is have them 2 3/8" from the edge of the chassis. If the power tubes sockets are that far from the other side for the purpose of balance, then all tubes will be bunched in the middle. 8" width doesn't cut it. The 17" x 10" Hammond would have been a better choice, but with only 5 tubes and two trannies on top, it probably would have looked awkward. 12" or 14" x 10" is probably good for that arrangement. But, no Hammonds that size in the needed height.

May go with my original plan to scratch build my chassis, and use these Hammonds for other projects. They're really quite good for $25/each.

Anyway, something to think about.

Cheers, Greg


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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2009, 10:38 
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Thanks for the tip Greg. The Hammond chassis are good. A piece of wood on the front and side makes them look pretty sharp.

I've also used Bud Chassis in the past and they are very good too. They have aluminum chassis that are 10x12x3" and 10x14x3" that may work too. http://www.budind.com/view.php?part=al-ch

Cheers

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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2009, 14:40 
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Joined: 04 Oct 2008, 11:29
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Location: Chillicothe, Ohio
Gio,

Thanks, I shouldn't have bought those so quickly. Those Buds would have been perfect, no doubt. Something for others to watch for if they're buying a chassis. But I'm already prepping one of the Hammonds. I did a mock layout and measured for the tube socket placement, and it's going to be OK. I just have to mount the 6SN7s and the GZ34 off the board with chassis sockets, as mentioned. And the pcb is going to be mounted to the bottom plate. I think that will actually make my build simpler in some ways. I have the holes cut for all 5 sockets. It's very easy with a step bit up to 3/4" and then a conduit hole cutter that works perfectly for the 1 1/8" sockets. I am considering adding a plate of 1/4" aluminum on top that will overhang and match up with wooden side panels and a 1/4" thick aluminum front panel. I have it pictured in my mind and think I can make it look suitable.

I've also realized I don't have enough matching 6SN7s. I have several, but only one pair that are the same. Think I'll look to EH re-issues. They're getting good feedback on the forums, and are far cheaper than the NOS stuff on ebay. There's a quad of NOS 6SN7s on there now with a BIN price of $599.99. WOW!!

Cheers, Greg


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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2009, 00:13 
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With the NOS prices I've been using a lot of the new production tubes and have been pretty happy. The JJ tubes are also very good and inexpensive.

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