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PostPosted: 30 Dec 2019, 17:41 
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Joined: 23 Feb 2017, 02:02
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The speaker and box choice looks good.


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PostPosted: 31 Dec 2019, 04:47 
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Joined: 13 Jan 2018, 21:33
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Location: australia
Thanks Koichi. Labour intensive work. my back is aching after 2 days working on it. it deceptively heavy for a small speaker.

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PostPosted: 01 Jan 2020, 06:08 
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Gluing, sanding and painting to go once the other channel completed. I used sheet poly fill and glued to the sides, top and bottom panels where recommended for the baby labs. Minimal fill in the last chamber. Seems to be well damped. Difficult to tell how it sounds with only one channel but seems respectable enough given the short time of use.


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PostPosted: 01 Jan 2020, 21:48 
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Allot of the laybrnth boxers on sale are very large and very heavy.

This one looks small compact and nice.


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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2020, 20:36 
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Location: australia
Saturday got stuck back into the second box. My neighbour loaned me some larger clamps allowing me to line things up better before drilling and screwing. On the last box I got by by using my little workhorse with an integrated clamp but alignment of panels not as exact. Will need do some sanding before painting. But that's a while off.


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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2020, 20:49 
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Some of my choices may come back to bite me. Such as not re-bating the baffle or shaping the rear of the baffle. I don't have access to a router at the moment and didn't think to ask the guy who cut the wood for me. I'll press on and listen to the results. I can do this later if needed. The author of Xsim on the other diy audio forum suggested a circuit which could do both baffle step compensation and improve low end. Further possibilities to keep in mind.

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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2020, 21:01 
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Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 18:23
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Location: Australia
Woodo wrote:
Some of my choices may come back to bite me. Such as not re-bating the baffle or shaping the rear of the baffle. I don't have access to a router at the moment and didn't think to ask the guy who cut the wood for me. I'll press on and listen to the results. I can do this later if needed. The author of Xsim on the other diy audio forum suggested a circuit which could do both baffle step compensation and improve low end. Further possibilities to keep in mind.

Paint?

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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2020, 21:17 
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Hi Mark. I would prefer to have a full gloss piano black type finish the same as my 706s2 b&w s. Whether I can achieve that by my own resources is another thing. Currently reading up on possibilities but would like to get the speakers optimised and my ears used to the setup before I seal up the box and paint. My last diy speaker effort as a 19 year old student was a Matt black roller job. Was fine too lasted 40 years with a few touch ups before I sold them to another young audio buff.

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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2020, 21:36 
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One of the issues with mdf seems to be sealing the end grain. On my last speakers which were chipboard material I nailed and glued on quad covering the end grain on the front. acoustically may not have been the best idea.

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PostPosted: 21 Jan 2020, 16:42 
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Incorporating the polyfill. As recommended kind of, trying out all sides covered in the front chamber, non opposing sides in second chamber and either top or bottom panel covered. It was convenient to place a top panel piece extending the length of the first two chambers. In the last chamber I placed a piece against the chamber panel for starters. The recommended approach is the cover the bottom and non opposing faces for about half the panel length. For the Stinger this was 5 inches leaving the last part uncovered. I'll experiment with this.

I forgot to drill pilot holes in the internal partition and front baffle when screwing on the top. Lesson learned this will split the mdf. It may be better to avoid using screws altogether. The clamps are holding where the split occurred after reglueing.


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