DIY Audio Projects Forum

can any one share pcb copper side

An alternate option from purchasing a pcb is just to use the experimental board with 2000 predrilled holes that you can buy from the Source and run solder and wire traces to each of the components.... I got excellent results this way, just follow the layout of the schematic and place parts as close together as you can get them keeping signal paths short.

other wise it is just less trouble to buy the boards that Rod Elliot provides

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My Mini 12AU7 Tube Preamp, Pioneer SX-D7000, JVC XL-V221BK, JBL L80T, DCM TF700

• Project Page - Mini 12AU7 Tube Preamplifier
• Support/Questions - Mini 12AU7 Tube Preamp thread

I feel PCBs dull the sound and I would be the very first to use a pad brd. and wire component-2-component. Far fewer solder joints and not hard to have a shorter signal path. Only problem is if you have to do a repair it is generally harder. You just have to be really creative and careful with component placement and think "what does this have to connect to next and where will that be". My best effort so far is a two stage tube preamp with no component-2-component hook-up wire.

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Projects: "Precision" - 300W Class AB Holton power amp | "retro2308" - chip based headphone amp | ”Calibre 834” - tube phono MM preamp |

That actually looks rather nice what you have there, I tend to agree with pcb's dulling the sound, point to point is really the way to go where possible.

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My Mini 12AU7 Tube Preamp, Pioneer SX-D7000, JVC XL-V221BK, JBL L80T, DCM TF700

• Project Page - Mini 12AU7 Tube Preamplifier
• Support/Questions - Mini 12AU7 Tube Preamp thread

This is a bit of a sore point for me: in point-2-point wiring often components are all soldered to some for of long tag strip then hook-up wire is run from the tag strip to tube sockets etc. This works great for commercially manufactured gear, easy to manufacture, easy to repair, but way too many solder joints and far too much hook-up wire.

But in component-2-component wire (not saying I invented it but definitely I'm one who practices it and champions the technique where possible) there maybe NO hook-up wire (or even links) in the core cct. minimal solder joints and shortest signal path. In this technique one component (e.g. a resistor) is directly soldered to the next (e.g. a capacitor or tube socket). A bu$gg*er to build and hard to repair. But always sounding fast and great.

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Projects: "Precision" - 300W Class AB Holton power amp | "retro2308" - chip based headphone amp | ”Calibre 834” - tube phono MM preamp |

hi all, i try to make this amp, i create my own pcb, but it doesnt work, the transitor is too heat, even blown up. the output is 24 Volt. i follow step by step from esp guide, any one can help me ?

Hi.
Is there some suggestion on the PSU for this amp?
The schematics on ESP site seem quite simplistic..

I connected my P3A amp to the preamp output of Technics integrated amplifer. It matches perfectly. The sound was really superb. The Klipsch speaker produces the best sounding cymbals, with its legendary horn tweeters. Watching high definition concert videos sounded crystal clear. Audiophile cd's. sounded so natural and so smooth . Built this amp to experience one of the best sounding diy CFP amplifer.

P3A amplifier Point2Point
Sound.... so far so good
Final Tr 2SC3281/2SA1302\
Driver MJE15034/35
Elco silmic II, input caps WIMA MKS4

Hi All,

I built the P3A amp, coupled it with the P97 preamp. On the P3A I have two 0.8°C/W heat sinks, one for each channel. I am using MJL21193/MJL21194 transitor pairs mounted directly on the heatsinks. I couldn't get mica so used the adhesive silcon mounting tape (prefer mica but would need to order it in). Overall it is working quite well. A very slight hum, not sure what is causing this.

One thing I am a bit concerned about is temperature. I am testing int on a couple of 4ohm speakers. With no signal, the amp remains cool. When using it at a moderate volume, the amp gets warmish, 30°C or so. However when I crank it up a bit (half volume on the knob), the amp gets quite warm, with heatsinks getting up to 70°C or more (ambient temperature is about 15°C in my shed at the moment). Is this operating temperature too high or is this in th normal range. If too high, what can I do to reduce the temperature other than getting a bigger heat sink?

Thanks.
SGA