DIY Audio Projects Forum
 NEW  Matt presents bias and operation data for the 6V6 tube in SE operation - 6V6 Single-Ended (SE) Ultra Linear (UL) Bias Optimization.

DIY Audio Projects Forum

Welcome to the DIY Audio Projects Message Forum. Use these forums to discuss Hi-Fi audio and to share your DIY Audio Projects. Registration is free and required to post messages and view the file attachments. Registration will only take a minute and registered users do not see any advertisements. After you have completed the online registration process, check your email (including spam/junk folder) for the verification email to activate your account. New members are under moderation - so your posts will not be visible until approved by a moderator. See the Read Me 1st, Forum RULES and Forum FAQ to get started on the forum.

It is currently 18 Nov 2018, 16:45

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 127 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 9, 10, 11, 12, 13  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: 18 Sep 2012, 10:34 
Offline

Joined: 17 Sep 2012, 07:58
Posts: 1
can any one share pcb copper side


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 22 Sep 2012, 15:27 
Offline
Project Author
User avatar

Joined: 14 Oct 2008, 17:35
Posts: 901
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
An alternate option from purchasing a pcb is just to use the experimental board with 2000 predrilled holes that you can buy from the Source and run solder and wire traces to each of the components.... I got excellent results this way, just follow the layout of the schematic and place parts as close together as you can get them keeping signal paths short.

other wise it is just less trouble to buy the boards that Rod Elliot provides :up:

_________________
My Mini 12AU7 Tube Preamp, Pioneer SX-D7000, JVC XL-V221BK, JBL L80T, DCM TF700


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 22 Sep 2012, 19:06 
Offline
Project Author
User avatar

Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 18:23
Posts: 4977
Location: Australia
CrazzyAbtTubes wrote:
An alternate option from purchasing a pcb is just to use the experimental board with 2000 predrilled holes that you can buy from the Source and run solder and wire traces to each of the components.... I got excellent results this way, just follow the layout of the schematic and place parts as close together as you can get them keeping signal paths short.

other wise it is just less trouble to buy the boards that Rod Elliot provides :up:

I feel PCBs dull the sound and I would be the very first to use a pad brd. and wire component-2-component. Far fewer solder joints and not hard to have a shorter signal path. Only problem is if you have to do a repair it is generally harder. You just have to be really creative and careful with component placement and think "what does this have to connect to next and where will that be". My best effort so far is a two stage tube preamp with no component-2-component hook-up wire.
Attachment:
PreampBrds.jpg


This post has a file attachment. Please login or register to access it. Only Registered Members may view attached files.


_________________
Projects: "Grace" - Psvane 6SN7-SE Globe preamp | | "VoXUno" - Single driver MarkAudio 12P speaker | | "Lagoon Take 2" - Single stage tube preamp | Website: retro-thermionic


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 04 Nov 2012, 21:37 
Offline
Project Author
User avatar

Joined: 14 Oct 2008, 17:35
Posts: 901
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
That actually looks rather nice what you have there, I tend to agree with pcb's dulling the sound, point to point is really the way to go where possible. :)

_________________
My Mini 12AU7 Tube Preamp, Pioneer SX-D7000, JVC XL-V221BK, JBL L80T, DCM TF700


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 04 Nov 2012, 22:09 
Offline
Project Author
User avatar

Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 18:23
Posts: 4977
Location: Australia
CrazzyAbtTubes wrote:
That actually looks rather nice what you have there, I tend to agree with pcb's dulling the sound, point to point is really the way to go where possible. :)

This is a bit of a sore point for me: in point-2-point wiring often components are all soldered to some for of long tag strip then hook-up wire is run from the tag strip to tube sockets etc. This works great for commercially manufactured gear, easy to manufacture, easy to repair, but way too many solder joints and far too much hook-up wire.

But in component-2-component wire (not saying I invented it but definitely I'm one who practices it and champions the technique where possible) there maybe NO hook-up wire (or even links) in the core cct. minimal solder joints and shortest signal path. In this technique one component (e.g. a resistor) is directly soldered to the next (e.g. a capacitor or tube socket). A bu$gg*er to build and hard to repair. But always sounding fast and great.

_________________
Projects: "Grace" - Psvane 6SN7-SE Globe preamp | | "VoXUno" - Single driver MarkAudio 12P speaker | | "Lagoon Take 2" - Single stage tube preamp | Website: retro-thermionic


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 19 Nov 2012, 04:27 
Offline

Joined: 13 Nov 2012, 19:54
Posts: 1
hi all, i try to make this amp, i create my own pcb, but it doesnt work, the transitor is too heat, even blown up. the output is 24 Volt. i follow step by step from esp guide, any one can help me ?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 18 Jan 2013, 04:49 
Offline

Joined: 03 Jan 2012, 03:09
Posts: 9
Hi.
Is there some suggestion on the PSU for this amp?
The schematics on ESP site seem quite simplistic..


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 11 Feb 2013, 06:56 
Offline

Joined: 15 May 2011, 19:52
Posts: 2
I connected my P3A amp to the preamp output of Technics integrated amplifer. It matches perfectly. The sound was really superb. The Klipsch speaker produces the best sounding cymbals, with its legendary horn tweeters. Watching high definition concert videos sounded crystal clear. Audiophile cd's. sounded so natural and so smooth . Built this amp to experience one of the best sounding diy CFP amplifer.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 08 Sep 2013, 09:30 
Offline

Joined: 30 Aug 2013, 12:19
Posts: 1
Location: Indonesia
P3A amplifier Point2Point
Sound.... so far so good
Final Tr 2SC3281/2SA1302\
Driver MJE15034/35
Elco silmic II, input caps WIMA MKS4


This post has a file attachment. Please login or register to access it. Only Registered Members may view attached files.



Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 03 Jun 2014, 21:05 
Offline

Joined: 30 Dec 2010, 00:07
Posts: 4
Hi All,

I built the P3A amp, coupled it with the P97 preamp. On the P3A I have two 0.8°C/W heat sinks, one for each channel. I am using MJL21193/MJL21194 transitor pairs mounted directly on the heatsinks. I couldn't get mica so used the adhesive silcon mounting tape (prefer mica but would need to order it in). Overall it is working quite well. A very slight hum, not sure what is causing this.

One thing I am a bit concerned about is temperature. I am testing int on a couple of 4ohm speakers. With no signal, the amp remains cool. When using it at a moderate volume, the amp gets warmish, 30°C or so. However when I crank it up a bit (half volume on the knob), the amp gets quite warm, with heatsinks getting up to 70°C or more (ambient temperature is about 15°C in my shed at the moment). Is this operating temperature too high or is this in th normal range. If too high, what can I do to reduce the temperature other than getting a bigger heat sink?

Thanks.
SGA


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 127 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 9, 10, 11, 12, 13  Next

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
DIY Tube Projects :: DIY Tube Amp Kits :: DIY Speaker Projects :: DIY Solid State Projects :: DIY IC / Op-amp Projects :: DIY Phono Projects :: DIY Cable Projects :: Hi-Fi Audio Schematics
© diyAudioProjects.com - Terms of Service - Privacy Policy