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PostPosted: 14 Feb 2011, 19:09 
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Joined: 30 Nov 2010, 09:54
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Location: Oak Creek, Wisconsin USA
I just got back from Costa Rica and found my ALPS Blue Velevet VC waiting for me. It installed perfectly the first time. It's both quieter and smoother than stock.

But I have one more question. How do I install a drain line?
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PostPosted: 15 Feb 2011, 05:37 
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You can fill every wine in input RCA connectors and drain high quality wine from speakers outputs!! :thumbsup: :wine: :redwine:
Cheers!! :redwine: :redwine: :redwine:

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Projects: OTL 6AS7 Gen, Electric, SEs 2A3 RCA, 300B JJ, 6S4S, 4P1L, EL11 Telefunken, 6AS7 RCA, 6S33S, 6S41S, 6S19P, PP 6005 Gen. Ellectric , headphone ampl. OTL Loftin White 6AS7 RCA....SE E84L& E80CC Siemens&Tel-n.
http://azazello-sound.blogspot.com/


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PostPosted: 15 Feb 2011, 13:28 
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Hi Jim welcome back. Nice enclosure and the layout is excellent. That layout should make for a nice quiet amp. :up:
JimOfOakCreek wrote:
But I have one more question. How do I install a drain line?

What do you mean by a drain line? A bleeder resistor in the power supply or an external grounding mount?

PS - what was the problem from this thread: Please Help Me Trouble Shoot My K-12G

Cheers

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PostPosted: 15 Feb 2011, 16:14 
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Location: Oak Creek, Wisconsin USA
Gio wrote:
Hi Jim welcome back. Nice enclosure and the layout is excellent. That layout should make for a nice quiet amp.
JimOfOakCreek wrote:
But I have one more question. How do I install a drain line?

What do you mean by a drain line? A bleeder resistor in the power supply or an external grounding mount?

PS - what was the problem from this thread: Please Help Me Trouble Shoot My K-12G

I want a bleeder resister in the power supply so that I can work on the amp safely without fear of getting zapped.

I 'repaired' multiple issues in one go, therefore, I'm not 100% sure which restored the amp. I suspected a poor soldering job on the diodes you sent me. But I also replaced the tubes. I accidentally :bawling: dropped two of the original tubes about three feet on a thin rug covering a concrete floor. There were a few other smaller soldering issues that I cleaned up as well.

All is well now, however. :D

BTW: I followed your advice and removed the two DC blocking caps. I also replaced the remaining 4 Jansen Crosscaps with 4 Auracaps.

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PostPosted: 15 Feb 2011, 18:48 
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Hi,dont mean to but in but it doesnt matter if there is a bleeder or not for safety you should probably always disconnect from the wall and then manually discharge your caps with some thing like https://amptechtools.powweb.com/stick.htm this discharge stick.I made mine and hid the resister in a thick plastic ink pen body. Oh and the resister goes at the end of the power supply. Nice chassis,looks like it would be easy to tinker with...I love S-5,we ought to flood them with E-mail to come out with a new amp!
David

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PostPosted: 17 Feb 2011, 13:23 
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The max voltage on the K-12 tube amp kit supply is about 250V.

So you can use this Ohm's Law Calculator to size up a bleeder resistor. You don't want to use too small of a value as it will load the supply and make a lot of heat. A larger resistor will be smaller (less heat) and will put less load on the supply. The drawback of this is that it will take longer to drain the power supply capacitors when power is disconnected.

The K-12 power supply is already pushed to the limit so I would lean towards a larger resistance so not to add too much more load on the supply.

So for example, a 470k resistor (470,000 ohms) and a maximum 250V supply, you are looking at a touch over 1/8W (0.133W) of power dissipation. I generally double the dissipation so a 470k, 1/2W resistor would work well as a bleeder in this situation.

Cheers

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PostPosted: 24 Feb 2011, 22:52 
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Joined: 30 Nov 2010, 09:54
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Location: Oak Creek, Wisconsin USA
Thanks for the valuable information. You always make my work so much easier.

Regards...!

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PostPosted: 02 Mar 2011, 21:58 
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Question: I just discovered that one of four of my Auricaps is an 0.33uf instead of 0.22uf. These are the coupling caps to the tubes. PE must have sent the wrong part and I soldered it in. How adversely will that affect my K12G?

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PostPosted: 02 Mar 2011, 22:26 
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Hi, Shame on PE. :bawling: It really shouldn't matter. In the K-12 any value over about .1uf should not have an effect. The .33 will allow a tad bit more low frequency through. But since the amps are a bit challenged on bottom end by the other components it will be of no consequence. If you contact PE they are usually pretty good to deal with and they will probably send you a replacement free. If not, PM me and I'll send one I removed from something or other. No charge, just nice to have it go to a good home. I agree with Gio, I would use a 470K 1/2 watt for a bleeder. Since the newer K-12s have a slightly higher capacity power transformer, you can probably go to as low as 270-330K if you want. It will discharge a little faster. For them I would go for a 1 watt resistor.

Nice build, I like wood cases. :D I have a stock pile of various ones I have discovered for use in future projects. Some places that were really good for them was Target and Walmart in the kitchen section. They had a lot of "organizers" made of bamboo that were just the right size for many projects. Cheap too .

Good listening
Bruce

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PostPosted: 02 Mar 2011, 22:32 
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Location: Oak Creek, Wisconsin USA
gofar99 wrote:
Hi, Shame on PE. :bawling: It really shouldn't matter. In the K-12 any value over about .1uf should not have an effect.


Bruce, thank you so much for the offer of the .22uf. But if you say it doesn't matter that one cap is 0.33uf, I am going to let it go. I love the sound of this amp and that's all that matters to me.

Regards....jim

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