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PostPosted: 05 Sep 2008, 18:53 
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Joined: 26 Aug 2008, 20:57
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Location: Atlanta
Yeah I was wondering about that...maybe I will do a 3 position or something...say an 11k,33k, none...something like that.


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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2008, 15:41 
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Got my tubes and some chassis mount sockets today. They are branded Sylvania and Pro/Comm but look identical...I think they are all probably just rebranded.

I have 6 sockets so if anyone wants to do a P-P amp let me know and I will get some out to you for next to nothing.


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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2008, 19:19 
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billnchristy wrote:
Got my tubes and some chassis mount sockets today. They are branded Sylvania and Pro/Comm but look identical...I think they are all probably just rebranded.

I have 6 sockets so if anyone wants to do a P-P amp let me know and I will get some out to you for next to nothing.

I'll assume you are talking 6T9 tubes. I have 4 X NOS (of course) GE, and RCA (look very similar) a Lindal, Sylvania in two different sizes.My pick are the GEs short. then the RCAs.

Post a shot of the tubes.

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Projects: "Lagoon" - tube preamp with cathode follower | "retro-Oatley 6J6" - 6J6 push-pull headphone amp with OPTs | "retro-Hiraga" - Jean Hiraga Le Monster
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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2008, 19:45 
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They both have USA 6T9 on the top with the little dots that I have only seen on GE tubes. I tried to get a pic of that but it is nearly impossible being clear.


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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2008, 19:59 
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I have the dots too so I know what you are talking about. I know you are doing point to point with this project but if you had of used Gimos cct. brds. you would have been happy with them. They do have some very small solder pads though on some components. I would recommend the brds. though. Very well made. solder masked and screen printed. But good luck anyway.

I haven't gone to effort of electrically matching valves but did use same manufacturer, size and age. With age after 100 hours play (not hard for me to clock this up) the age should not be a big issue. They do run very hot so be warned. Two filaments in the one envelope!

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Projects: "Lagoon" - tube preamp with cathode follower | "retro-Oatley 6J6" - 6J6 push-pull headphone amp with OPTs | "retro-Hiraga" - Jean Hiraga Le Monster
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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2008, 20:36 
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It's not that I don't want to use the boards, its just that I want to practice P-P with something rather cheap before building my KT88 SE amp. I figure I can learn now and avoid pitfalls later.

:up:


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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2008, 20:55 
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billnchristy wrote:
It's not that I don't want to use the boards, its just that I want to practice P-P with something rather cheap before building my KT88 SE amp. I figure I can learn now and avoid pitfalls later.

Agree a good place to start. I was only comment that the brds at $16 were good value. And I'm a little lazy.

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Projects: "Lagoon" - tube preamp with cathode follower | "retro-Oatley 6J6" - 6J6 push-pull headphone amp with OPTs | "retro-Hiraga" - Jean Hiraga Le Monster
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PostPosted: 12 Nov 2008, 06:58 
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Hi Mark,

Can you clarify two points for me please.

1. When you say you snub the filaments on valves what pins are you connecting the snubbers to?
2. What type of 1 uf caps are you using for those snubbers?

Thanks,

Alan

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PostPosted: 12 Nov 2008, 15:00 
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booangler wrote:
1. When you say you snub the filaments on valves what pins are you connecting the snubbers to?
2. What type of 1 uf caps are you using for those snubbers?

Directly across the two filament (heater) pins and 50V 1uF (tiny ceramics).

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PostPosted: 12 Nov 2008, 19:48 
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Hi Alan,

I used the same trick on my S-5 Electronics K-12 Tube Amp Kit. I got the idea from VoltSecond's page. Ceramic or film types should be fine.

Cheers

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