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PostPosted: 30 Nov 2016, 19:15 
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Wow you have really gone to town on this one. The only problem I see is your tag board soldering is so messed up by all the mods I feel there may be some deg regain of sound!

Now you have all the mods sorted you may need to build from scratch, employing your mods, to achieve a clean build.

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Projects: "Lagoon" - tube preamp with cathode follower | "retro-Oatley 6J6" - 6J6 push-pull headphone amp with OPTs | "retro-Hiraga" - Jean Hiraga Le Monster
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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2016, 08:29 
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I was going to rebuild the boards.. :D

Its just not worth wrapping connections ect to then pull it all down again it would scrap the boards each time.
I might make some Teflon boards with turret tags.

It's all good fun.

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M. Gregg

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PostPosted: 05 Dec 2016, 15:52 
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Just for interest,

Teflon turret board wired with silver. :)


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M. Gregg


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PostPosted: 07 Dec 2016, 07:29 
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Just a few thoughts on Teflon,

Many years ago I tried to make Teflon/PTFE boards.
I bought some Teflon board and thought easy.
Then the reality struck home, the board was as said Teflon (non-stick).
Non stick to saw blades, non stick to drill bits, yes you guested it.
I couldn't cut it drill it or work with it.
Then there is the danger of fumes from over heating Teflon.
As I tried to force the drill into the board smoke started to pour off the drill.
So in the past I ditched the idea.

So as you can see the material has changed.
However thoughts are:
Use a mask when working with it and cover your hands with the latex gloves you use on cars etc.

I never noticed any dust while drilling, then I washed my hands and thought where has all this grease come from.
Then the realisation I had not used any grease or come into contact with anything like butter or oil etc.
It had to be a residue from the board. It took a whole day to wear off.

Anyway the bottom line is Teflon board can I cut it if I buy it.

Actually I quite enjoyed the exercise, so I will use it again.
NB the turret tags I had had slots in the top (I don't like slots so I removed the slot tags and just used the turret centre holes as normal).

I guess I should add that the board I used is easy to work with, so just be selective what board you use.
Any flux etc just dropped of the board. I used IPA to clean off the indelible pen after marking out.
To cut the board score with a knife then it snaps along the cut.

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M. Gregg

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PostPosted: 11 Dec 2016, 04:54 
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A few hours with the Teflon board.

Again just for interest (not that anyone would follow this).

The Teflon board is 3mm thick so its difficult to get the turrets right through the board.
However using Philips screwdriver bit from an impact driver works well with a hammer and dolly.
I tested this on a scrap piece of Teflon and I couldn't pull the turrets from the board with pliers without twisting and using excessive force.

Again I removed the slots from the turrets.
I have use the same components.
It would work well on a new build, but this is just a trial and testing.
Most of the wiring is for the selector switch, which is always bulky with a project in constant change.


Regards
M. Gregg


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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 17:32 
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Main PSU,

Teflon rebuild with modification for Ammo bead suppression.
All soldered using Oyaide SS47

Its been interesting to hear the changes, the PTFE/Teflon is more mechanically damped than paxolin/tufnol or PCB.
The main PSU board rebuild seemed to make the whole thing jell and seems to add a warmth to the sound a bit like changing capacitors in the signal path. I quite like the ammo beads the first initial tests were not so promising, however I will give it time to settle and see what happens. Its pretty good at the moment with more depth to the sound. :D

This last board took while I expected to take a few hours tops but at least its done now.

For those interested the board is available in small sizes from Amp Maker. (I have no connection)
Its a guitar amp site but its a away of making sure you can work with the board.
As long as you use correct PPE and sharp drills it all seems to work OK.

I used standard tag board as a template to mark out the PTFE/Teflon. Then used an automatic centre punch followed by the drill, NB I only used an electric hand drill not a pedestal drill.

Just listening to UB40 at the moment and it was worth all the effort. :D
I would definitely use it again.
You have to remember that PTFE is soft and slippery so its needs more support than PCB.

Regards
M. Gregg


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PostPosted: 16 Dec 2016, 12:42 
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The heater board,

It was standing out so I made a Teflon replacement.
I'll just run it for a while now, :D .

Regards
M. Gregg


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PostPosted: 17 Dec 2016, 04:05 
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Just thought,

I would put a link to Amo Beads in case someone mixes the idea with ferrite beads which are not the same.
http://toshiba.semicon-storage.com/us/p ... beads.html

NB you cannot use Amo Beads in place of Ferrite beads they work differently.
I have linked a snip from the spec sheet.

This explains why when I tried Amo Beads to replace a ferrite core on the circuit the ferrite bead sounded better, reason is the Amo bead was doing nothing :D
Another link for interest.
http://www.toshiba-tmat.co.jp/eng/res/p ... ads_en.pdf

Regards
M. Gregg


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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 09:40 
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Final comment,

I prefer the W22 Welwyn 15 ohms to the Ohmite in the cathode CCS set.
So they have gone back in they are softer in the treble and more musical overall.
The Ohmite sounded harsh by comparison. (YMMV) :D

I could instantly hear it on the first track I played.
Again Oyaide ss47 solder used.
interestingly the PTFE board connections didn't move at all as I pulled the resistor off the connections.


Regards
M. Gregg


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PostPosted: 22 Dec 2016, 12:24 
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Just for interest,

(I'm not expecting anyone to follow this)
The switch arrangements.
I like position 3.


Regards
M. Gregg


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