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PostPosted: 14 Aug 2017, 21:21 
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Joined: 04 Jun 2008, 20:59
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Location: Arizona, USA
Hi, They seem to be Gerber files. I don't know of any free (or cheap) programs that will handle them. Someone else may know. IMO the hard part of the amp is the power supply the actual active part is pretty simple.

Good listening
Bruce

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PostPosted: 15 Aug 2017, 00:35 
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Joined: 29 Oct 2014, 12:32
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Location: Russia Komi republic
http://www.gerber-viewer.com
Try this :)

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PostPosted: 17 Aug 2017, 12:06 
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Joined: 13 Jul 2017, 21:24
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I have looked at them and cant see any obvious errors and have ordered them.
Once i get one built up I will report back


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PostPosted: 15 Oct 2017, 06:32 
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Joined: 15 Oct 2017, 06:18
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Hello Bruce, hello everyone.
I would like to ask you a question about this headphone amp.
I probably did not have the patience to go through all forum pages regarding this project .
I didn't find any specification regarding the resistors used in the main part of the schematic.
50R and 47 k should be 0.5 watt?

Also, if I decide to build it using the 600 ohms versions of the output transformers should I encounter any problems if I will use a lower impendance headphone connected to it? I have in plan to buy a 300 ohms headphone, but until then I would like to use a 32 ohms headphone.

Thank you.

Mihai Stescu


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PostPosted: 15 Oct 2017, 16:50 
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Location: Arizona, USA
Hi, 1/2 watt is fine in my designs except as noted when one has to dissipate some heat. I prefer personally 1 watt ones for tube gear though...just a personal thing. If you build the 600 ohm version it probably will work for the low Z phones. You will lose a lot of power in the process and there might not be enough to satisfy your needs. The load impedance will be off for the tubes, but they won't be harmed, just not be efficient. Fortunately most phones regardless of impedance are rather efficient. Given the need to make a choice now I would build for the 150/75 ohm version. It would do fairly well on the low Z phones and be OK for the high Z ones later. The best combination is to match the output to the phones though.

good listening
Bruce

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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2017, 00:04 
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Joined: 15 Oct 2017, 06:18
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Thank you, Bruce.
I will build the 150 / 75 version. Anyway it will take some time to get the Edcor transformers...
I will keep you updated about my work.


Best regards from Romania,

Mihai Stescu


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PostPosted: 03 Nov 2017, 14:21 
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Joined: 17 Mar 2016, 07:26
Posts: 27
Location: Prêles, Switzerland
Some feedback on these boards from oshpark :

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/WUrkvuuC
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/pUgoryTM

The boards are quality work from what I can judge. There are a few issues with them:

- the holes are small. Do not get components with large pins. My rectifier bridge pins were too big.
- the holes for C2 (3x) are not on a standard span with 10mm. I found either 7.5 or 15 mm condensators but not 10mm spanned ones.
- the power tranny is fix-wired for 120V. I had to cut the print in 3 places and do some jump cabling for 240 V. See the edcor doc on how to cable the XPWR083A for 240V.

The prints are marked J. Webster, 08/08/15. Anyone knows this person so I can thank him appropriately ?

I expect to cable my amp this week-end. I'm eager to finish this first tube project. Thanks to all who contributed !
Charles


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PostPosted: 08 Nov 2017, 15:10 
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Location: Prêles, Switzerland
Dear Bruce, dear builders,

I'm in the process of assembling my own version of this amp. It suddenly came to my mind that the PSU doesn't have a bleeder resistor. Should I add one right after the rectifier diodes ? Or to minimize the power loss, better to add it at B+ ?

Thanks for your hints at a sane location and value for it !

Kind regards,
Charles


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PostPosted: 08 Nov 2017, 15:23 
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Location: Arizona, USA
Hi, I generally don't use them as the power supply or innards of the gear ought never be touched when it is possibly charged up. My thinking is a bleeder is only needed if the gear has suddenly been turned off before the tubes are warmed up and can conduct the charge off the power filters. I also fully enclose my gear. Bottom plates are a must IMO. However if you want I would add a 100K 2-5 watt resistor to the end of the power filter string. It should drop the charge in a few seconds and will not waste a significant amount of power.

Good listening
Bruce

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PostPosted: 08 Nov 2017, 15:41 
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Joined: 17 Mar 2016, 07:26
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Location: Prêles, Switzerland
Bruce thanks for your very quick answer. I intend to build a closed enclosure but still I like my peace of mind while I build and test it... and service it later if it ever needs service.

Charles


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