Why should there be a problem? You use grid #2 (pin 6) for UL-connection. Grid #3 is like in many other tubes (EL84/6BQ5) connected to cathode.

Hello everyone, I also have a K-16LS amp. It was my first amp kit and I think highly of it. With 16 watts per channel it has plenty of good sound even with stock coupling caps. I run it into a pair of Polk Audio tsi 100 bookshelf speakers and it rocks. I took it to last weekends Halloween party and ran it in the rear of my S10 Blazer on an inverter and my friends were in awe of the tubes glowing in the dark. It doesn`t have the power of my Oddwatt amps with KT 88s but it is plenty useful as a computer sound system in my bedroom. There is a picture of my KT 16 amp towards the end of the picture section of the forum. Thanks, Robert P

We would have to see a schematic to confirm as I think there is already a feedback loop in this amp. So I don't think it will be as simple as a connection.

I was a bit puzzled as I suspected the 6005/6AQ5/EL95 to be running in 100% pentode mode, and bu simply hooking up screen grid (am I right there? I mean grid #2) to an UL tap on the output transformers.

Hi Magnus, I hope you are feeling better.

We will have to see the schema to know for sure. I recall exchanging a few emails with a fellow who reported stability issues when he tried UL but I don't recall the details. I thought I had the schema but I can't locate it now.
Cheers

I built a PP-amp on 6AQ5 based on the schematic below, but I think I hooked ut up accirding to the plan, i.e. pentodes running as pentodes.
I have no clue how this amp looks like, but without promising ocr saying too much, I'd guess it is very conventional.

Hi guys,
I got the schematic right in front of me, just no scanner, maybe I can take a photo.

Hi Everyone, I'm glad someone has had success with the K-16. I have seen the schematic and it can run UL mode. The biggest issue is to make sure when you cut the traces to the screens and attach the UL taps from the new transformer that you make sure that power still gets to the remainder of the circuit. The amp does indeed have a NFB loop and I would leave it in place to start. If you encounter odd performance or low output and distortion, then the loop is probably providing positive feedback. It is difficult to tell when you substitute new transformers into the amp exactly what the polarity is. There doesn't seem to be a consistent pattern between the various manufacturers. The easiest way to tell is leave the loop disconnected until the amp is up and running then hook it up. If the output drops in strength a little then it is correct. If it goes up or seems to do nothing it is backward. The easiest fix if it is backwards is to swap the ground and hot leads on the secondary side.

Good listening
Bruce

Hallo everybody, well it's daylight where I live now, so I was able to take a better picture of the schematic, which I will post right now. I hope, that helps.

Today I bought a lot of stuff via e-bay, I hope I didn't screw up too bad. Mostly subminiatur tubes, triodes and pentodes (I don't like tetrodes, my Chinese amp implies tetrodes as power tubes and I don't like the sound when they are pushed to the limit), but I was smart enough to order all of them indirect heated with 6.3 volts and all of them can handle voltages till 250 volts. This way I, have some small tubes for where space does matter. I have a cheap Chinese of the shelf tube amp, which sounds bad but looks great. Maybe I will tear it's guts out and build a new amp from scratch, wire it point by point with everybody's help, because I've never done something like that before. I designed my own PC-boards, all right, but point to point, no experience yet.

I also finally got an promising e-mail from the french guy, who makes his own triodes. I really hope he will send me one of those, just to have it and admire it. You really should watch the video of him making triodes, if you haven't done so, yet, this men is amazing. Here is his web page. http://paillard.claude.free.fr/
and I'll post the picture he sent my by e-mail.

All the best from Holland.
Ben

Hallo everybody,

well I started this topic and it's been off topic from the beginning, because it's all about my kit amp, but now I finally will start my amp from scratch and I will document every step for everybody else. What am I gonna do? Well I am planning on duplicating my kit amp DIY-K-16LS, but I don't want to use a pc board, I wanna wire the amp point to point, and I wanna use output transformers with 40% taps for ultra linear, and I want to heat my tubes with clean DC, so there are gonna be some changes. I probably go with bridge rectification, 10 tubes to wire is plenty for a beginner, I think. Why am I duplicating my kit? Good question, first of all, my kit sounds great as it is, it has plenty of power to fulfil my needs. This is gona be my first point to point project, so I have a working amp to compare, in case things don't work out at first. I wanted to not use the pc board on my kit amp, but when I finally got the package, I got all excited and put that thing together, now I'm glad I did. I learned a lot and I still do. Now I wanna build a "real" amp, point to point. I am excited. I will post pictures as I progress. I got the tubes and the sockets, now it's time to start with the case. Greetings from Holland.
Ben