DIY Audio Projects Forum
 NEW  Matt presents bias and operation data for the 6V6 tube in SE operation - 6V6 Single-Ended (SE) Ultra Linear (UL) Bias Optimization.

DIY Audio Projects Forum

Welcome to the DIY Audio Projects Message Forum. Use these forums to discuss Hi-Fi audio and to share your DIY Audio Projects. Registration is free and required to post messages and view the file attachments. Registration will only take a minute and registered users do not see any advertisements. After you have completed the online registration process, check your email (including spam/junk folder) for the verification email to activate your account. New members are under moderation - so your posts will not be visible until approved by a moderator. See the Read Me 1st, Forum RULES and Forum FAQ to get started on the forum.

It is currently 28 Feb 2020, 11:18

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: 11 Oct 2012, 05:07 
Offline

Joined: 11 Oct 2012, 02:20
Posts: 3
Hi everyone
I am in the process of creating a website where my aim is to teach hobbyists how to create circuit boards. It is at www.build-electronic-circuits.com

As it is hard to evaluate my own work, I would love it if any of you could spare a few minutes and give me some feedback. What information are you missing? Do you see any obvious mistakes on my part? What would you love to read about (within the context of creating circuit boards)?


All the best,
Oyvind
Norway


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 11 Oct 2012, 12:17 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 05 Nov 2010, 21:07
Posts: 702
Location: South East US - Tennessee
I didn't see any mention of solder type in your soldering "tutorial". There are many types, some not intended for electronics use. For example, there is the typical rosin core 60/40 solder, which is for electronic use, but there is an ACID core 60/40 that is for use in PLUMBING :eek: . Acid core does not do well in electronics. There are also solid core variants which require the use of a separate wetting agent (in all honesty, even if you're using a rosin core solder, the use of additional rosin applied to the joint prior to soldering actually promotes a better joint). Then you have the non-lead types (silver), which require higher iron temps and a little more experience and skill, but provide a joint that is physically and electrically stronger. Keep in mind, most novice hobbiers aren't necessarily going to know they should make sure to look for solder specifically intended for electronics work.
Also, choice of iron is extremely important. Yes, for most common applications a simple $10 25 watt iron will do. However, if you're going to be dealing with ESD sensitive components, like microprocessors, then you really should invest in a high quality ESD safe iron. Tip care is essential and this is where investing in a high quality iron can make a difference. Those $10 irons have tips that are prone to oxidation, requiring frequent cleaning. Higher quality irons have tips that are clad and not as susceptible to oxidation. NEVER use a file on a tip. The iron is the one tool you should actually put a little investment in a quality product. A variable temp, ESD safe soldering station is well worth the investment. This would make a good purchase: Weller WES51 Soldering Station. It's a high quality iron and will give years of good service (with proper tip maintenance). The variable temp allows you to adjust according to job - lower temps for SMD, higher temps for large joints. An added plus is the wider variety of tips that are available (from extra fine tips for SMD to wide "screwdriver" tips for larger joints) and are easily swapped/replaced.

:thumbsup: nice job!

_________________
The key to a successful build is to keep the smoke IN the circuit.
-Les

We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. - Albert Einstien
_________________________________
LM380 Bridged Guitar Amp, Oatley K301 Phono Pre-amp, Oatley K272 Headphone Amp, Tube proto-board


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 11 Oct 2012, 13:53 
Offline

Joined: 11 Oct 2012, 02:20
Posts: 3
Great input on both solder types and soldering iron. I will definitely use your input to improve the pages about soldering.
Thank you Les!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 03 Oct 2013, 12:30 
Offline

Joined: 03 Oct 2013, 12:08
Posts: 1
@oyvdahl: I think you should provide more information regarding the electronic components like the meaning of numbers of the electronic components because for the beginners it is very confusing to understand the meanings of these numbers. I know there are many numbers but at least you should try to add the basic meaning of the numbers like how to calculate the capacitance of ceramic capacitors from its numbers like 103, 104 are 0.01uF and 0.1uF etc. and some information about the resistance like 4R, 4K2 means 4 and 4.2K ohms and that would be beneficial for the beginners.

_________________
proto assembly


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 08 Oct 2013, 06:13 
Offline

Joined: 11 Oct 2012, 02:20
Posts: 3
Thanks Roberto. That's a good idea =)


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
DIY Tube Projects :: DIY Tube Amp Kits :: DIY Speaker Projects :: DIY Solid State Projects :: DIY IC / Op-amp Projects :: DIY Phono Projects :: DIY Cable Projects :: Hi-Fi Audio Schematics
© diyAudioProjects.com - Terms of Service - Privacy Policy