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 NEW  Matt presents bias and operation data for the 6V6 tube in SE operation - 6V6 Single-Ended (SE) Ultra Linear (UL) Bias Optimization.

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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2015, 22:46 
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Location: Chilliwack, BC
laurie54 wrote:
Just to add to the confusion. Did you know that aluminum can be polished until it has a mirror finish?


But if unless treated straight away, it'll look like garbage quickly ;)

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PostPosted: 22 Jul 2015, 21:09 
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Location: Vancouver Canada
Yes you are right Gregg, it will and quickly. I,ve known a few who anodize in the bathtub but truly, only if single or needing a divorce. Remember SAE, PhaseLiniar, and more from the 60's 70's.


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PostPosted: 26 Jul 2015, 07:46 
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Joined: 15 Nov 2013, 10:16
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Location: MB, Canada
laurie54 wrote:
Yes you are right Gregg, it will and quickly. I,ve known a few who anodize in the bathtub but truly, only if single or needing a divorce. Remember SAE, PhaseLiniar, and more from the 60's 70's.


Yea, after further reading, there's no way I'm going to attempt anything like this myself.

Just trying to decide now between a powder coat, and anodizing..

How durable is a powder coating? I'm starting to come around to the idea of a nice cream color powder coat or something like that..


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PostPosted: 26 Jul 2015, 13:25 
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The Jolida amps I've worked on are powder coated. Seems they can take the temp cycling. Dunno if it was special stuff.

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* Ratings are for transistors - tubes have guidelines*
Home: GeeK ZonE
Work: Classic Valve Design


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PostPosted: 06 Aug 2015, 22:18 
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I posted in my build thread, but thought maybe I should post here as well...

I ended up getting the chassis anodized.. And I was thinking I'll need to take additional measures to make sure the chassis is grounded properly.
The chassis itself is made up of 6 panels (front, back, 2 x sides, top and bottom). I was thinking that I'll grind a little bit of coating away around a bolt on each of the panels, and then use ring terminals with inner teeth bolted down at those points, and then link them together and back to the safety ground.. Does that seem like a good way to do that?

There is also a lip that puts each panel in physical contact with eachother, I suppose I could grind some of the anodized surface away on that lip and the adjoining section of panel, but I have a feeling that wouldn't make as good of an electrical contact as the inner-tooth ring terminals linking each panel together with wire.

Has anyone dealt with properly grounding an anodized chassis before? Suggestions?


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