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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 19 Apr 2017, 10:14 
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Joined: 30 Oct 2015, 07:44
Posts: 59
Thanks,

I've managed to clean off the stained area with a little wood bleach. I then masked the underside of my top plate leaving the outer 1/4" edge exposed and then hit it with etching primer. In finishing my wood, I'm using WaterLox and I also gave it a light coverage as well. I decided on a hammered finish for the top plate.

Great advice all...thanks...another photo below. I'm waiting for the finish to cure before attaching the top plate. Driving me nuts to wait.

Image
http://imgur.com/a/PM126


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 19 Apr 2017, 17:55 
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Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 18:23
Posts: 4656
Location: Australia
Glad to see you spray your top plate. I do the same. As above, etch primer then epoxy enamel spray. Can take four days before you can touch it. Takes about a month to dry hard.

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Projects: "Tutu" - 150W Tripath T3 monoblock | "Silver Supreme" - 6L6GC-12AT7 SE UL power amp | "retro-4040" - 40W Chip amp LM3876T
Website: retro-thermionic


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 19 Apr 2017, 22:01 
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Joined: 30 Oct 2015, 07:44
Posts: 59
I could use a little advise on something...

I've cut out a rectangular hole in the back for my IEC connector. It will fit snugly and secure and I'm quite happy with it...tested my chisel skills. The audio out jacks are a no-brainer since long shaft connectors are readily available however, RCA connectors all seem to share the same very short form factor. I have found some flanged bulk-head like connectors but they're not very attractive. Short of installing metal mounting panels for the RCA connectors have you a source for long shafted RCA connectors? The wood thickness is .75 inch.

By they way, I did have a look around your website...some very attractive work there. Did you manufacture the mounting plates for the speaker binding posts and RCA connector on the "Silver Supreme" ? Your binding posts appear to have a single screw in the middle which looks great, curious why you didn't do the same for the RCAs. Do share :-)


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 20 Apr 2017, 00:47 
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Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 18:23
Posts: 4656
Location: Australia
Steph wrote:
I could use a little advise on something...

I've cut out a rectangular hole in the back for my IEC connector. It will fit snugly and secure and I'm quite happy with it...tested my chisel skills. The audio out jacks are a no-brainer since long shaft connectors are readily available however, RCA connectors all seem to share the same very short form factor. I have found some flanged bulk-head like connectors but they're not very attractive. Short of installing metal mounting panels for the RCA connectors have you a source for long shafted RCA connectors? The wood thickness is .75 inch.

By they way, I did have a look around your website...some very attractive work there. Did you manufacture the mounting plates for the speaker binding posts and RCA connector on the "Silver Supreme" ? Your binding posts appear to have a single screw in the middle which looks great, curious why you didn't do the same for the RCAs. Do share :-)


All bought off the shelf. They come just like that. The binding posts aren't deep and don't work well with bananas. I will not say this was a rush job it's just a fun job in a $9 wooden box. Startling results though.

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Projects: "Tutu" - 150W Tripath T3 monoblock | "Silver Supreme" - 6L6GC-12AT7 SE UL power amp | "retro-4040" - 40W Chip amp LM3876T
Website: retro-thermionic


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 20 Apr 2017, 05:02 
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Joined: 08 Aug 2009, 03:11
Posts: 1996
Location: Chilliwack, BC
Steph wrote:
The wood thickness is .75 inch.


And a Forstner bit can take that down to a manageable thickness for a connector.

Doing this before assembly, you can thin it out from the inside. As it is now, you'll have to do it from the outside.

Cheers!

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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 20 Apr 2017, 06:01 
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Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 18:23
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Location: Australia
Geek wrote:
Steph wrote:
The wood thickness is .75 inch.


And a Forstner bit can take that down to a manageable thickness for a connector.

Doing this before assembly, you can thin it out from the inside. As it is now, you'll have to do it from the outside.

Cheers!


The wood thickness in the wine boxes meant I have to mount all on the outside.

_________________
Projects: "Tutu" - 150W Tripath T3 monoblock | "Silver Supreme" - 6L6GC-12AT7 SE UL power amp | "retro-4040" - 40W Chip amp LM3876T
Website: retro-thermionic


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 20 Apr 2017, 12:06 
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Joined: 30 Oct 2015, 07:44
Posts: 59
Thanks guys,

I hadn't considered the forstner bit. Thankfully, I've got a right angle drill which will let me work in close quarters...I've give that a go if I'm unable to locate some long connectors.

Again, thanks for the suggestions!


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 27 Apr 2017, 19:14 
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Joined: 30 Oct 2015, 07:44
Posts: 59
I was so close and ready for assembly. I was very much happy with the hammered textured paint and thought to apply a light clear coat for a little added protection and instantly a horrible reaction took place. The painted raised up and looked like alligator skin. Just awful. The guy at the paint store told me that the paints would be compatible but I tell you this is not the case. After some research I learned that the hammered paint product I used has silicon in it which causes the unique textured appearance. This did not go well with my clear coat selection. I ended up getting some chemical stripper and starting over again. While I did like the hammered appearance, I found it wasn't entirely uniform and I thought to simply try a simpler bronze paint finish. Here's a photo of it just before the "incident".

http://imgur.com/a/kPwpF


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 27 Apr 2017, 20:05 
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Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 18:23
Posts: 4656
Location: Australia
Steph wrote:
I was so close and ready for assembly. I was very much happy with the hammered textured paint and thought to apply a light clear coat for a little added protection and instantly a horrible reaction took place. The painted raised up and looked like alligator skin. Just awful. The guy at the paint store told me that the paints would be compatible but I tell you this is not the case. After some research I learned that the hammered paint product I used has silicon in it which causes the unique textured appearance. This did not go well with my clear coat selection. I ended up getting some chemical stripper and starting over again. While I did like the hammered appearance, I found it wasn't entirely uniform and I thought to simply try a simpler bronze paint finish. Here's a photo of it just before the "incident".

http://imgur.com/a/kPwpF

Another nice finish. Glad to see you are going to a bit of trouble and not just using a raw Al top plate. The end result will be an exceptionally attractive amp. And it will sound good to.

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Projects: "Tutu" - 150W Tripath T3 monoblock | "Silver Supreme" - 6L6GC-12AT7 SE UL power amp | "retro-4040" - 40W Chip amp LM3876T
Website: retro-thermionic


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs Wood
PostPosted: 03 May 2017, 12:58 
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Joined: 29 Apr 2017, 15:14
Posts: 17
That is a nice chassis, looks sturdy, and useable.
are the positions of the xfmrs on the chassis permanent? just seem to me
that they are too widely spaced. I always use 1/4 of an inch spacing, which
I find appropriate, sometimes you think having a lot of space allows you the pleasure of spacing your components as you like.but technically thats not good,
especially in areas where short leads are an important requirement, in particular
where output and power transformers and chokes are concerned..


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