DIY Audio Projects Forum

Side Project - Soundsticks Hack
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Author:  laurie54 [ 12 Oct 2017, 13:52 ]
Post subject:  Re: Side Project - Soundsticks Hack

Pin 33 is an input pin used to alert the firmware that it should switch to analogue signal instead of digital. You can take it directly to ground or if it makes you feel better use a res. If you do choose to use a res, make it a low value less than 1K to ensure the pin 33 has been taken low enough to be seen as a "logic zero" by the control cir's.

Author:  Shug [ 22 Oct 2017, 11:48 ]
Post subject:  Re: Side Project - Soundsticks Hack

I have a set of these bought on ebay and not working with windows 10 laptops USB socket (USB 3?)
But that dosent really matter as I want to try to follow
and install a jack plug which I intend to connect to a bluetooth aux

I'm a beginner so a couple of questions
1) The description says "it suffices to delete the integrated circuit UAC 3552A" then the photos show it as removed. Do I need to do this as I am not confident I can remove this without causing damage. If there is no USB power then is this unit not deactivated?
2) I want the best possible sound so I was going down the "attenuation" route but I noticed the Japanese translation suggested different resistor values to the French translation. Also where do I buy resistors

All advice most gratefully received

Author:  wkeiter [ 27 Jan 2018, 19:29 ]
Post subject:  Re: Side Project - Soundsticks Hack

Thanks so much for this post! I have been holding on to these Soundsticks for 18 years and the last 10 I have only brought them out of storage in original packaging to try to find drivers or a way to fix. Well, thanks to you all my speakers are once again putting smiles on faces! Thanks so much

Author:  gotoid [ 28 Jan 2018, 06:19 ]
Post subject:  Re: Side Project - Soundsticks Hack

we owe a debt of gratitude to laurie's knowledge and help in this thread :)

Author:  laurie54 [ 28 Jan 2018, 11:51 ]
Post subject:  Re: Side Project - Soundsticks Hack

Hi Shug. Ok couple answers:
Since I don't have the sch of the unit i don't can't say about needing to remove the chip. I can say without yrs of experience in soldering and electronics do not even try and remove the chip yourself. It is not a difficult chore but one which does require a measured skill-set. Try taking it to a repair shop. They might be ok with helping you to remove it.
-- First let me clarify ""going down the attenuation route."".I find most people think of volume as turning it up or down. Volume level of 2 going up to the louder 6 is thought of as being turned up. In fact the opposite is happening. Every amp ever made runs wide open. Full volume all the time. When the vol control is at 2 it means the 100% signal is being attenuated down to 2. When you turn the volume up to say 6 it means you are "now" not turning it down as much as before when it was at 2. This is how EVERY volume control works in EVERY system ever made so it is a good idea to think in this way as it makes the terminology and explanations easier to understand. Soooo when you turn the vol down you are actually adding more resistance to the signal path and therefore not allowing as much threw to the end amp. Attenuation is the amount of resistance added between signal and amp.
Next, the resistors and what values. Well if you go individual res route then you will also be needing a rotary switch to switch in the different values of res to accomplish different amounts of attenuation. Or,,,,, you can use a pot. A variable resistor. A volume control. They are all the same thing. That means one piece that must be soldered in the cct instead of many res's and sw's etc. To answer your question about where to buy res,,,,,, any electronics store. Also any repair shop would have an assortment of res. Best to go and see what the world is that you are getting into just to get your hands wet.Have a look at almost every amp sch in this sight and you will see a "pot" / "var res" in front as the first thing the signal coming into the sch. Have a look at many and you will see the pattern.
AS for whether the chip is powered if it is connected to power supply instead of USB. Yes it most probably will be powered by the supply if used or the USB if that is the source.

It would be a good thing to look at a number of the amp sch's on this sight. Both vacuum tubes and solid state to get yourself familiar with terminology and just how similar most amp's really are.Then when you come back to this soundsticks thingy you will be amassed at how crazy complex and mysterious it is not.

Author:  laurie54 [ 31 Jan 2018, 19:34 ]
Post subject:  Re: Side Project - Soundsticks Hack

Wow so that is what i write like after 3 days with temp of 202.6 deg. I would like a short word with whomever's sneeze on the bus put me threw that nightmare. lol
Shug. I think the easiest answer is to solder one wire at either the pin 33 point or at the res point which you can then take to ground threw an external switch. It allows for
either input type to be used

Author:  duchski [ 26 Jun 2018, 13:36 ]
Post subject:  Re: Side Project - Soundsticks Hack

Hi guys,

My question is not directly related to your project but you seem to have some knowledge of Soundsticks which don't have so here it is: I have HK Soundsticks III which are BT and AUX-IN version of that speaker. Do you know if there is any way to disable Bluetooth input?
There is nothing relevant in the manual and there is no switch visible so I wonder if could modify my speakers to temp or perm disable the BT-in.
BT is not PIN protected so anyone can connect to my speaker which happens almost every day (apt. building)

Thank you so much in advance

Author:  laurie54 [ 27 Jun 2018, 19:44 ]
Post subject:  Re: Side Project - Soundsticks Hack

I haven't been around much lately sorry for the delayed response. I don't have any clear pics of the board but looking at the UAC3552A IC, pin 33 is AUXEN. (Auxiliary Enable). So if the aux inputs are being used i am assuming this pin is taken (low or high) to disable the BT and enable the aux inputs on the chip. This is the pin which will need to be held high or low in order to keep the chip connected to the aux input and not the BT. Hope this helps.

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