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PostPosted: 10 Feb 2009, 19:49 
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Joined: 10 Feb 2009, 19:40
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We have been trying to build our own home speakers from scratch for a long time. Do not have the recession dollars for expensive software, and most of the freeware software is waaayy too limited. Plus, after six months of reading this forum and others, we ARE NOT cabinet maker woodworkers with thousands of dollars worth of equipment and supplies.

My husband finally gave up Sunday night and said: "It takes a big or bigger man to ask for help". He's a big man in my eyes.

Please assist us and crunch the numbers both from the electronics and enclosure points of view. We are going to take this one step at a time: We need a crossover parts list and design also based on the speakers and enclosure.

The attached pic is our initial enclosure design and idea.
Attachment:
idea.JPG


Here is our parts list for speakers:

Ribon Tweeters
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=277-110

Upper midranges x 2
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=280-110

Lower midranges x 2 (same as uppers)
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=280-110

Woofers x 2
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=290-095

Jen


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PostPosted: 11 Feb 2009, 00:26 
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Joined: 28 May 2008, 21:53
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Location: Winnipeg, CANADA
Hi Jen, welcome to the forum.
Have you already purchased the drivers? The ribbon is not as sensitive as the woofers, so with multiple mids and woofers, there will likely be some sensitivity issues. Also, having four midrange drivers is not common.

In general, if you want to use software to come up with a specific crossover, you will need the frequency response plots which I did not see on the product links.

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PostPosted: 11 Feb 2009, 08:38 
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Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 20:12
Posts: 972
Location: Houston, TX
Hi Jen,
Let me expand a bit on what Gio mentioned one of your problems is. The efficiency of your speakers should match. You have speakers from 88db to 93db at one watt at one meter.

For instance SPL: 93 dB 1W/1m. This means that a sound pressure level measurement at one meter away from this speaker with one watt of power will deliver 93db which is nearly two times louder than the other speaker that measures 88db. Each 3db is double the volume. So you can see now where matching this part is quite important. With an equalizer on each speaker you could fix this and maybe you could account for it in your crossover as well. I dont know as I am no crossover guru, or anything guru. My first suggestion would be a call to parts express expressing your frustrations. Maybe maybe you can still get 'in store credit' and then we can go about comparing existing designs and match the designs to speakers. Buying the drivers first usually is fine with Full Range speakers as you are only ending up using one driver but with multiple driver systems you need a plan first.

So, what can we do? Do you think they will give you in store credit? I know its been a long time since your purchase but if they are in good condition, well new condition, maybe this is an option.

Gio, could she take care of the dB mismatch problem with LPads?
Ri

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PostPosted: 11 Feb 2009, 19:04 
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Hi Ri,
The woofers are 93dB each, so a pair will need some pretty serious padding. Four mids would also need padding. This would result in some pretty high impedance. Typically just the high end is padded, not the low end.
Cheers

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PostPosted: 15 Feb 2009, 21:43 
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Joined: 13 Feb 2009, 09:38
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Location: North of Pgh., Pa.
Your idea of using all your drivers in one unit is a project bigger than most would try. I would suggest you build 2 - [ 3 way units for stereo ] with what you have. Save the extra mids for another project. How did you decide which drivers to buy? There is reasonable software out there to help with the c/o network, some free!


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PostPosted: 26 Feb 2009, 12:23 
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Joined: 26 Aug 2008, 20:57
Posts: 415
Location: Atlanta
I have to echo these guys thoughts and add a couple more:

1) A well designed bookshelf is an amazing animal. A well designed small tower would probably be even more amazing. A nice simple 2-way with good quality components will get you hours of enjoyment and much less headache.

2) Another approach, and one I like a lot, is using a nice single driver full-range and couple it with a powered sub driver. The Dayton FR is well regarded as are several designs from tang-band. Put this in one of the mid-sized PE cabinets (saves all that wood working trouble) with a 6.5" tang-band sub and 70w amp and it would be heavenly.

Good luck, don't give up!! The first design is always the hardest and you guys have shot for the moon...take a couple steps back, make it easy on yourselves for the first go 'round.

You may be doing this just to save money but I bet you will be hooked when you discover how good your designs can sound.

Soooo...in summary, keep it up!, keep it simple!


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PostPosted: 26 Feb 2009, 13:13 
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Location: Winnipeg, CANADA
I'll echo that. The Dayton Audio RS100S-8 Fullrange Driver in a sealed box with a sub or two could work very well. And for those who don't have the space or skills (like me), the Parts-Express prefab speaker enclosures are great!
Cheers

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