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PostPosted: 07 Jan 2009, 12:14 
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Oh,
you might want to use some putty or something similar inbetween the front of the speaker and the wood you will screw it into. To create an air tight bond. This is not nearly as important on a BR as it would be on a sealed cabinet design. However, for the sake of keeping with the original design and only allowing a certain amount of air pressure in the cabinet it might be good to make a gasket.
Ri

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PostPosted: 07 Jan 2009, 13:31 
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ludoboyer wrote:
Concerning the speaker's hole, I will use a jig saw.

A hole saw is very easier to work with than jig saw and it does a really good job.
Attachment:
Drill-Holesaw.jpg

RiGuy wrote:
you might want to use some putty or something similar inbetween the front of the speaker and the wood you will screw it into

All my fostex drivers have come with a gasket, so you may not need to do this.

Yes, take pictures. :)


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PostPosted: 07 Jan 2009, 13:52 
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I think I will have some problems to do a 104mm diam. hole using a hole saw for drill. I will use it for the BR hole and a jig saw for the speaker hole since the tolerance is about 2-3mm.
Will it be benefit to add tar in the cabinet?
Will the speaker sound harsh during the break-in period? I'm planning to put the loudspeakers in a sort of isobaric configuration: the 2 loudspeakers are placed close in phase opposition. That way, there will be a sort of acoustic short cut and nearly no sound from the speakers will be heard during the break-in.

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PostPosted: 07 Jan 2009, 18:58 
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Hi Ludo, I have used a 4 inch (102 mm) hole saw for the FE127E drivers several times. So that should no be a problem, but a jigsaw is good too.

The speakers seem to get better with time, but that is likely our ears becoming accustomed to the sound. I would not worry about it.

I like to damp the walls with felt, but I have never tried tar. I can't imagine it will make a huge difference.

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PostPosted: 07 Jan 2009, 19:46 
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I felt like there was significant break in on my FE127e. Maybe its psychoacoustics but just about everybody complains loudly about the FE127e for a few days and then they start to warm up to the speakers. Female vocals are wonderful on this one.
Ri

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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2009, 12:10 
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Hi all,

I think the main difference between felt and tar would de the thickness. Should I substract the volume of tar (or felt) from the required volume?
There is a good chance I will buy the wood —15mm MDF— and other things to start the build. I will buy the drivers next week.
I will show you pictures, it might be interesting.

Ludo


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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2009, 13:17 
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Hi Ludo, I would not worry about the volume occupied by the lining material. I also really like the idea of dual binding posts, one with BSC and one without.

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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2009, 14:24 
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gmilitano wrote:
I also really like the idea of dual binding posts, one with BSC and one without.

Can you explain please? I don't understand your sentence.
I found this which is about matigating vibration transmision from the magnet to the cabinet. I will try to do something similar. I will glue a piece of wood from one wall to the other just behind the speaker.

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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2009, 19:19 
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I was referring to the dual binding post and BSC circuit.
Image
It won't cost much more to do this, but it will add a lot of flexibility and then you can try with and without BSC to see which you prefer.

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2009, 07:19 
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Concerning the BSC circuit, I was planning to make it after the break in and to put it next to the amplifier. The way the BSC circuit is made in the picture you show is good though.


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