DIY Audio Projects Forum
 NEW  Matt presents bias and operation data for the 6V6 tube in SE operation - 6V6 Single-Ended (SE) Ultra Linear (UL) Bias Optimization.

DIY Audio Projects Forum

Welcome to the DIY Audio Projects Message Forum. Use these forums to discuss Hi-Fi audio and to share your DIY Audio Projects. Registration is free and required to post messages and view the file attachments. Registration will only take a minute and registered users do not see any advertisements. After you have completed the online registration process, check your email (including spam/junk folder) for the verification email to activate your account. New members are under moderation - so your posts will not be visible until approved by a moderator. See the Read Me 1st, Forum RULES and Forum FAQ to get started on the forum.

It is currently 19 Feb 2018, 15:02

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 18 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
PostPosted: 24 Jun 2008, 14:46 
Offline
Project Author
User avatar

Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 20:12
Posts: 971
Location: Houston, TX
That is the plan. I have not yet decided on the inputs and outputs, but I would like to say they will share these. Do you see any problem with having them switched? I dont think there would be.
RiGuy

_________________
DIY Lightspeed Passive Attenuator


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 24 Jun 2008, 17:01 
Offline
Project Author
User avatar

Joined: 04 Jun 2008, 20:59
Posts: 3551
Location: Arizona, USA
Hi Gary, There is plenty of help available to build what ever you choose. Just ask. Gainclone, F5 or K502 all are good projects. All worthy to get your feet wet in diy audio. PS don't stand in the water when you plug them in though. If it comes to tube stuff, I'll be glad to assist. For SS some others are generally more versed and will help as well. From a practical point the gainclone and K502/K12 are the easiest to get parts. The basic kit of parts from Audio Sector for a gainclone is hard to beat for the price. Good instructions too. The one I have has been working for many months without any problems. All you need extra is a case, power transformer, input and output jacks and a volume control. For the latter there is one carried by Radio Shack (of all places) made by Alps for $4. I have used them in a number of projects and they are pretty good. Diy need not be costly. Be creative, many of my projects are built on cases from the kitchen and housewares sections of department stores. Other diyers use things like baking pans.

Good listening
Bruce

_________________
Some of my DIY Tube Amplifier Projects:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 24 Jun 2008, 17:56 
Offline
Editor
User avatar

Joined: 28 May 2008, 21:53
Posts: 4530
Location: Winnipeg, CANADA
RiGuy wrote:
That is the plan. I have not yet decided on the inputs and outputs, but I would like to say they will share these. Do you see any problem with having them switched? I dont think there would be.

Potential problems are ground loops inducing noise. Another problem could be that the inactive amp module will draw a load from the active amp module since they will share a connection at the terminals. Grounding problems are very hard to predict and I'm not sure if the inactive amp will draw a load. I would have a back up plan of switches. I have never come across a webpage of someone trying this before. Sorry this is not of much help.

_________________
[ DIY Mains AC Power Cable Cord ] - [ Gobo LM1875 Amp Kit ] - [ Tang Band D4-1 Horn Speaker Kit ] - [ Monoblock Push-Pull KT88 Tube Amp Kit ]


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 24 Jun 2008, 18:21 
Offline
Project Author
User avatar

Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 20:12
Posts: 971
Location: Houston, TX
Maybe I should try it with switches and then if it causes problems just changing to more inputs/outputs is going to be real easy.
I read that cable article. A bit colored as far as his opinions go, but I liked reading the ABX results. I kind of feel the same as this guy as you probably can tell. However, I believe some caps sound better than others since adding PIO caps to my K502. Nice and smooth. Before I 'felt' like the highs had this fuzziness riding on them and the PIO got rid of that.
RiGuy

_________________
DIY Lightspeed Passive Attenuator


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 25 Jun 2008, 10:11 
Offline
Project Author
User avatar

Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 20:12
Posts: 971
Location: Houston, TX
Okay. Power supply almost done. Just need to go to the hardware store and get a proper output.
Here is the link to the Picasa album of the build.
http://picasaweb.google.com/udailey/F5PowerSupplyBuild


This post has a file attachment. Please login or register to access it. Only Registered Members may view attached files.


_________________
DIY Lightspeed Passive Attenuator


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 25 Jun 2008, 18:11 
Offline
Editor
User avatar

Joined: 28 May 2008, 21:53
Posts: 4530
Location: Winnipeg, CANADA
Looking really good. Who doesn't like a huge power supply? :up:

If you are looking to tweak you can put snubbers on the rectifier and a 0.1 uF polypropylene caps at the end of the power supply caps. Take a look at Mark's LM3875 Baking Pan Gainclone as an example.

That should be more than enough heatsink for the bridge rectifiers.

Keep us posted on you progress!

_________________
[ DIY Mains AC Power Cable Cord ] - [ Gobo LM1875 Amp Kit ] - [ Tang Band D4-1 Horn Speaker Kit ] - [ Monoblock Push-Pull KT88 Tube Amp Kit ]


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 25 Jun 2008, 18:23 
Offline
Project Author
User avatar

Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 20:12
Posts: 971
Location: Houston, TX
These .1uf would just be to get rid of some HF sound that might have got into my supply, right? Could I use 33pf or .22uf? Think I have only one .1. But maybe I have more .1's now that I think about it. I think I might have some from trying to snubberize the K502. That didnt work out well so I will check. But is this just to get rid of HF?
RiGuy

_________________
DIY Lightspeed Passive Attenuator


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 25 Jun 2008, 19:05 
Offline
Editor
User avatar

Joined: 28 May 2008, 21:53
Posts: 4530
Location: Winnipeg, CANADA
Yes, ~ 0.1 or 0.22 uF on the power caps to catch HF. On the bridge rectifier ~ 0.01 to 0.022 uF for switching noise.

_________________
[ DIY Mains AC Power Cable Cord ] - [ Gobo LM1875 Amp Kit ] - [ Tang Band D4-1 Horn Speaker Kit ] - [ Monoblock Push-Pull KT88 Tube Amp Kit ]


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 18 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], laurie54 and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
DIY Tube Projects :: DIY Tube Amp Kits :: DIY Speaker Projects :: DIY Solid State Projects :: DIY IC / Op-amp Projects :: DIY Phono Projects :: DIY Cable Projects :: Hi-Fi Audio Schematics
© diyAudioProjects.com - Terms of Service - Privacy Policy