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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2010, 09:05 
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Joined: 27 Jun 2010, 15:21
Posts: 59
Location: Europe
mwhouston wrote:
You could waist time looking for an old tin can or the sump tray off a truck to build the amp in. But I think go and purchase something new and exciting to build your amp in. Try kitchen ware, it worked for me.

tnx for advice..i will look something in this direction..

i'll keep you posted with updates :D


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2010, 09:03 
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Joined: 27 Jun 2010, 15:21
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Location: Europe
OK..bad news- LM3875 is not manufactured any more..so i couldn't buy it :(

next plan is: DIY LM3886 Chip Amplifier (Gainclone) Project :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2010, 10:09 
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Joined: 24 Jun 2010, 00:48
Posts: 788
Location: Christchurch, NZ
The LM3875 is still around. I've read about how some people are preferring the sound of the LM3875 to the 3886. Up to you...

http://ch.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse ... tid=344598

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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2010, 10:31 
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Location: Europe
dtsup1 wrote:
The LM3875 is still around. I've read about how some people are preferring the sound of the LM3875 to the 3886. Up to you...

I couldn't buy it in my country..maybe some old stock somewhere..
the 3875 has more power than 3886!
ill try to contact some people who has experiences with building amps..maybe got some luck..
nin case not to get it,should i add snubber caps for 10.000uF too?like in synergy 3875 version from Mark?

regards


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2010, 11:08 
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Joined: 24 Jun 2010, 00:48
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Location: Christchurch, NZ
Snubbers are highly recommended. The 10uF snubber will be quite costly so you might decide to skip it. In any case a 0.1uF 400v MKP is great to snub the 10,000uF. The lower the ESR of the snubber, the better. :smoking:

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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2010, 11:33 
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Joined: 27 Jun 2010, 15:21
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Location: Europe
and RFI filter should be added to clear the AC power?
any other suggestions?any modifications that should i make?


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2010, 12:19 
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Location: Christchurch, NZ
I'm not too sure about the RFI filter. I haven't built the amp yet, but if I were to build one, I would use metal film resistors, good quality 10,000uF 63V electro caps and omit the 50K pot (if you already have a pre-amp).

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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2010, 12:23 
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Joined: 28 May 2008, 21:53
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Location: Winnipeg, CANADA
hybrid wrote:

If you plan to build point to point, the LM3875 requires less parts so it can be easier to build.
As for a point-to-point LM3886 build, there are some great pictures here for you follow: http://dogbreath.de/Chipamps/GainCardCo ... dCopy.html
hybrid wrote:
the 3875 has more power than 3886!

Actually it is the other way around, but the main difference between the two is the muting circuit. However, if you plan on driving 4 ohm speakers, the LM3886 is a better choice.

The sonic differences are IMO subtle and which one sounds better is a subjective choice. They both sound very similar and IMO very good considering the relatively low cost.
Cheers

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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2010, 14:14 
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Joined: 27 Jun 2010, 15:21
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Location: Europe
Gio wrote:
Actually it is the other way around, but the main difference between the two is the muting circuit. However, if you plan on driving 4 ohm speakers, the LM3886 is a better choice.

yes..my tweeter and bass are both 4ohm,midrange is 8ohm!
so the 3886 is better choice than!
OK,tomorrow i go shopping :D


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2010, 14:27 
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Joined: 24 Jun 2010, 00:48
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hybrid wrote:
OK,tomorrow i go shopping

Have fun. Pls post some pics! =)

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Dinesh

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