DIY Audio Projects Forum
 NEW  Matt presents bias and operation data for the 6V6 tube in SE operation - 6V6 Single-Ended (SE) Ultra Linear (UL) Bias Optimization.

DIY Audio Projects Forum

Welcome to the DIY Audio Projects Message Forum. Use these forums to discuss Hi-Fi audio and to share your DIY Audio Projects. Registration is free and required to post messages and view the file attachments. Registration will only take a minute and registered users do not see any advertisements. After you have completed the online registration process, check your email (including spam/junk folder) for the verification email to activate your account. New members are under moderation - so your posts will not be visible until approved by a moderator. See the Read Me 1st, Forum RULES and Forum FAQ to get started on the forum.

It is currently 30 Sep 2020, 10:44

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]

Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 2 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: 09 May 2017, 10:32 

Joined: 09 May 2017, 10:18
Posts: 1
I currently have a bookshelf-type speaker system setup.
A simple diagram of what it basically consists of is shown in the attached image.


-Amp board: Sure Electronics AA-AB32155 2x15W at 4 Ohm TA2024 Class-D Audio Amplifier.
-Full range speakers: Dayton Audio ND90-8 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 8 Ohm. Frequency Response: 80 to 15,000 Hz
-Tweeters: Goldwood GT-510 1" Soft Dome Tweeter. Frequency Response: 3,000 to 20,000 Hz. Capacitor: Dayton Audio PMPC-4.7 4.7uF 250V

It sounds pretty decent overall, but is missing a little on the lows.
So, I'm considering adding a single mono-woofer.

I am thinking that I would like for the woofer to have its own volume pot. This way, the bass can be controlled. I'm assuming in this case, it would need its own amp.
What would be the best way to do this? ... Could you simply split the audio (L & R) wires with a Y-connection straight from the main volume pot?
Then, one direction could go to the existing amp and speakers, and the other direction would go to an added volume pot which would go to the sub-amp from there.

Does that sound like a good way to do this?

This is a very DIY build, so, i'm not interested in buying expensive large mass-produced components (if you know what I mean)...

Thanks in advance to any guidance!!

This post has a file attachment. Please login or register to access it. Only Registered Members may view attached files.

PostPosted: 19 May 2017, 07:29 

Joined: 26 Oct 2012, 21:00
Posts: 201
Location: ontario canada
so what type of boxes are your speakers in?
reason i'm asking is you say your looking for more low end response and it may be possible to get a better result without having to add a sub.
but if your bent on adding a sub i would research PLLXO so you don't wind up with a mess of overlapping frequency ranges and passive x-overs for low frequencies turn into investments in copper fast.

Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 2 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
DIY Tube Projects :: DIY Tube Amp Kits :: DIY Speaker Projects :: DIY Solid State Projects :: DIY IC / Op-amp Projects :: DIY Phono Projects :: DIY Cable Projects :: Hi-Fi Audio Schematics
© - Terms of Service - Privacy Policy